Zenith El Primero

 

Among chronographs, the Zenith El Primero is perhaps one of the finest. This hand-made intensity has 31 jewels and endlessly fascinating perpetual actions, which can be articulated for triple-date moonphase and 12-hour chronograph all at once.

Zenith hasn't actually produced a watch for their own El Primero until fairly recently. The El Primero is used in a few other makers' watches, such as Ebel and Rolex. Earlier versions of the El Primero can be found in bulbous 70's designs from makers like Movado.

 

This version of the Chronomaster has one of the best display backs in the business. The machine is particularly well suited for display, with completely visible and open parts. In contrast to the Valjoux 7750, the El Primero's rotor is more slender and doesn't obstruct the view. And hey, half the reason to have a watch is the back.

A few other contrasts to the Valjoux:

  • Sleek auto-winding is silent, while the Valjoux can never seem to loose its uni-directional scrape-and-rumble.
  • Instant transition date, [day and month,] which all snap forward at midnight.
  • Three register subdials are closer together, offering alternative dial designs over the ubiquitous Valjoux, which is better suited to the largest designs such as Fortis.
  • I prefer the Valjoux for rugged designs such as military or diver's watches. The Zenith probably doesn't want to be slapped around as much. Valjoux has a generally chunkier feel.
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